Vieux-Nice · Neapolitan pizzeria
FumarolaNice
In an old bakehouse in the heart of old Nice, an oven from Naples and dough rested for forty-eight hours
The Margherita DOP, the Neapolitans’ Scarola, and an Etna rosso by the glass.
A wood-fired Neapolitan pizzeria in Vieux-Nice
The dough of Naples, the market of Nice
The flour comes from Campania, the buffalo mozzarella arrives twice a week, and the San Marzano tomatoes grew at the foot of Vesuvius. Everything else we buy in the morning at the Cours Saleya market: escarole, courgettes, Menton lemons.
First time here? Start with the Marinara, no cheese, as in 1734; then a Margherita, and a white pizza to share. If there are four of you, take the degustazione: the pizzas arrive one after another, in the middle of the table.
Forty-eight hours
The dough rises for two days, the pizza bakes for a minute
Salvatore kneads in the morning, with a starter he brought back from Naples in 2015. The dough balls rest in the cold for two days, then are stretched by hand, never rolled. At 485 °C the crust puffs and freckles in sixty seconds.
Neapolitans call that rim the cornicione: light, open, worth eating to the last bite.
To drink volcano wines
An Aglianico with the salsiccia, a Bellet with the white
Hélène picked wines from Vesuvius and Etna, and Bellet from the hills above Nice. Everything is poured by the glass; ask her what goes with your pizza.
Sunday scuola
Learn to stretch a dough, then eat it
On the first Sunday of the month, at ten, Salvatore opens the bench to eight guests. He shows the kneading, the shaping, the movement that stretches dough without tearing it. Everyone tops their own; the oven bakes it while they watch.
At noon we sit down together to eat what we made. Dates go up on our Instagram, @fumarola.nice, and the eight places go quickly.
At the oven
The fire is lit at five
Oak, nothing else. It takes two hours for the dome to reach 485 °C. At the bench the toppings go on in order, tomato, cheese, basil, a thread of oil; then the peel, and sixty seconds.
The pizzaiolo
“Flour, water, salt, starter, and two days of patience. The fire does the rest in a minute.”
Salvatore AmitranoPizzaiolo and co-founder
Salvatore learned the trade at fourteen, in a pizzeria in the Sanità quarter of Naples. He came to Nice in 2012 and met Hélène there; together they took on the old bakehouse on the rue des Fourniers in 2015.
Follow the house
Fumarola, market by market
Groups
A birthday, a team, a scuola just for you? The long table seats fourteen, the vaulted room forty.
Coming as a groupBook
We look forward to welcoming you
A table, the counter facing the oven, a place at the scuola: it’s all arranged by phone during service, or by e-mail at any hour.
Book by phone04 65 71 48 52Lunch 12:00 – 14:00 Friday · Lunch 12:00 – 14:30 Saturday and Sunday · Dinner 19:00 – 22:30 Tuesday to Thursday · Dinner 19:00 – 23:00 Friday and Saturday · Dinner 19:00 – 22:00 Sunday
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